rAs
rise AFRICA skills ← All Courses
AGRICULTURE · FLAGSHIP

Potato Farming

A complete 6-month program built on the decision that makes or breaks the crop — seed quality. Chitting, ridging and earthing-up, the preventive blight war, careful lifting, and the two stores every potato farm needs.

⏱️ 6 Months (crop + storage)📊 Beginner → Business-ready🌍 Hybrid: Online + Offline🎓 Business Seed Record on completion

Course Overview

Why 6 months? A potato crop runs 90–120 days from planting to harvest, then storage decides what you earn for it. Six months covers one full cycle plus the storage and seed-management decisions that separate growers who make money every season from those who watch their yields fall year after year. Potatoes are unusual: your biggest input is your own previous crop, and the single most important decision you make is where your SEED comes from.

Structure: 6 monthly modules → lessons → practical assignments → a 10-question quiz each module → final business project.

How to study (hybrid): Online — modules on your phone, sessions in the Study Diary, questions to the rAs AI assistant. Offline — save this page (Print → Save as PDF); the practicals happen at the ridges and the sprouting shed.

⚠️ Read first: the three rules that protect your investment

MONTH 1 — Potato Economics, Varieties & Seed Systems

Lesson 1.1 — Why potatoes are a serious business crop

  • Potatoes produce more food energy per hectare per day than any major grain, in only 3–4 months — which is why they are the fastest-growing staple in East and Southern Africa.
  • Yield gap reality: smallholder average across much of Africa is 7–12 t/ha; good management with certified seed reaches 25–40 t/ha on the same land. The gap is mostly SEED, blight control and ridging.
  • Markets: fresh household demand, the enormous and growing chip/fry trade (every town has fry vendors), crisp processors, and restaurants — plus seed potato sales to other farmers, the highest-margin product of all.

Lesson 1.2 — The seed system (learn this properly)

  • Potatoes are grown from tubers, not true seed — so every disease in the mother tuber travels into your field. Viruses build up invisibly, cutting yield 20–60% over successive generations of recycled seed.
  • The formal ladder: tissue culture → mini-tubers → basic/foundation seed → certified seed (what you should buy) → ware potatoes (for eating, NOT for planting).
  • Best practice for a smallholder: buy certified seed and use its progeny for at most 2–3 seasons, then refresh with certified again. Where certified seed is unaffordable, buy at least a portion each season and rotate refreshed blocks.
  • Where certified seed is unavailable, "positive selection" is the proven fallback: during the growing season, mark the healthiest, most vigorous, symptom-free plants with pegs and harvest ONLY those for next season's seed — this alone commonly lifts yields 20–30% over random seed saving.

Lesson 1.3 — Choosing varieties

Selection factorWhat to look for
MaturityEarly (75–90 days) for quick cash/short rains; medium-late (100–120) for higher yield
Blight resistanceThe most valuable trait in wet highland areas — cuts spray costs dramatically
Market useHigh dry-matter, oblong tubers for chips/fries; round smooth types for table; processors specify varieties
Dormancy/storageLonger dormancy = better ware storage and better seed handling
  • Ask your extension office and local processors which varieties they actually buy — planting a variety no local buyer wants is a common and expensive mistake.

Lesson 1.4 — Site, climate and rotation

  • Potatoes prefer cool conditions: tuber formation is best around 15–20°C night temperatures. Above ~30°C day heat, tuber set suffers badly — which is why African potato production concentrates in highlands and cool seasons.
  • Soil: deep, loose, well-drained sandy loam, pH 5.0–6.5 (potatoes tolerate more acidity than most crops — and mild acidity suppresses common scab).
  • Rotation: 3–4 years minimum away from potato, tomato, pepper and eggplant — bacterial wilt, nematodes and blight all persist in soil and residues.
  • Never plant into waterlogged ground; potatoes rot fast in standing water.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Month 1): (1) Locate a certified seed source, price it against ware potatoes, and record the yield difference claimed by 2 experienced growers. (2) Confirm your plot's 3–4 year rotation history and check drainage. (3) Ask 3 buyers (a chip vendor, a trader, a processor if present) which varieties they buy and at what size.
📹 VIDEO 1: "Why your potatoes get smaller every year" (13 min) — the seed degeneration story and positive selection in the field.

QUIZ 1 — Foundations

Q1. Smallholder vs good-management potato yields?
Show answer
7–12 t/ha typical against 25–40 t/ha achievable — mostly a seed, blight and ridging gap.
Q2. Why does recycled seed lose yield?
Show answer
Viruses and bacterial diseases accumulate invisibly in tubers, cutting yields 20–60% over generations.
Q3. Name the seed ladder in order.
Show answer
Tissue culture → mini-tubers → basic/foundation → certified seed → ware potatoes (eating only).
Q4. What is positive selection?
Show answer
Pegging the healthiest symptom-free plants during the season and saving seed only from those — commonly +20–30% yield over random saving.
Q5. Ideal temperature for tuber formation?
Show answer
Cool conditions with night temperatures around 15–20°C; heat above ~30°C suppresses tuber set.
Q6. Soil pH range and its bonus?
Show answer
5.0–6.5 — the mild acidity also suppresses common scab.
Q7. Rotation requirement?
Show answer
3–4 years away from potato, tomato, pepper and eggplant.
Q8. Which trait most reduces spray costs in wet areas?
Show answer
Late blight resistance in the variety.
Q9. Which potato product has the highest margin?
Show answer
Certified/quality seed potatoes sold to other farmers.
Q10. How often should certified seed be refreshed?
Show answer
After at most 2–3 seasons of using its progeny.
MONTH 2 — Seed Preparation, Land & Planting

Lesson 2.1 — Sprouting (chitting): a free yield boost

  • Spread seed tubers in single layers in shallow crates in a cool, LIGHT, airy place (diffused light, not direct sun) for 3–5 weeks before planting.
  • Target: multiple short, thick, green-purple sprouts 1–2 cm long. These are strong. Long white spindly sprouts from dark storage break off and produce weak plants.
  • Chitted seed emerges 7–10 days faster, matures earlier and yields more — at zero cost.
  • Discard any tuber that is soft, rotting, cracked, or has only one thin sprout at the tip.

Lesson 2.2 — Seed size and cutting

  • Best seed size: 35–60 mm tubers (roughly egg-sized), planted WHOLE. Whole seed carries more food reserve and resists rot far better than cut pieces.
  • Cutting large tubers is possible but risky in the tropics: if you must, cut so each piece has 2+ eyes and 30–50 g, use a knife disinfected between tubers (bacterial wilt spreads on blades), and let cut surfaces suture for 2–3 days in airy shade before planting.
  • Seed rate: about 2–3 tonnes per hectare of 35–60 mm tubers — this is why seed is the biggest cash cost in potato farming.

Lesson 2.3 — Land preparation and ridging

  • Plough deep and work to a loose, clod-free tilth — tubers expand physically through soil, so compaction directly limits size and shape.
  • Incorporate 20–30 t/ha well-rotted manure/compost. Fresh manure encourages common scab and rot.
  • Form ridges/furrows 75–90 cm apart. Planting on ridges is standard for good reason: drainage, easier earthing-up, easier harvest, and protection of tubers from light and blight spores.
  • Basal fertiliser: a compound rich in phosphorus and potassium at roughly 500–800 kg/ha, placed in the furrow and covered with a little soil BEFORE the seed goes in — direct contact burns sprouts.

Lesson 2.4 — Planting

  • Spacing: 75–90 cm between ridges × 25–30 cm in-row (≈ 40,000–50,000 plants/ha). Closer spacing gives more, smaller tubers (good for seed production); wider gives fewer, larger ones (good for chips/table).
  • Depth: 8–12 cm, sprouts UP, covered with soil drawn from the ridge sides.
  • Plant into moist soil at the start of reliable rains or under irrigation; potatoes cannot be dry-planted and left waiting.
Iron-Clad Price Check: certified seed (compare per-tonne prices AND expected yield uplift), fertiliser and manure — 3 quotes each. Seed is 30–50% of your cash cost; a group purchase with neighbours cuts it meaningfully.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Month 2): (1) Set up a chitting area and sprout your seed for 3–5 weeks; photograph strong vs weak sprouts. (2) Prepare land and form ridges at your chosen spacing with basal fertiliser placed correctly. (3) Plant, logging seed size, spacing, depth and total seed weight used.
📹 VIDEO 2: "Chitting and ridging" (14 min) — sprouting crates, whole vs cut seed, furrow fertiliser placement, planting depth.

QUIZ 2 — Seed & planting

Q1. What is chitting and what does it achieve?
Show answer
Pre-sprouting seed in cool diffused light for 3–5 weeks — faster emergence, earlier maturity, higher yield, at no cost.
Q2. What do good sprouts look like?
Show answer
Multiple short, thick, green-purple sprouts 1–2 cm long (not long white spindly ones).
Q3. Best seed tuber size and why plant whole?
Show answer
35–60 mm — whole seed has more reserves and far better rot resistance than cut pieces.
Q4. If cutting seed, what three rules apply?
Show answer
2+ eyes and 30–50 g per piece, knife disinfected between tubers, and cut surfaces sutured 2–3 days before planting.
Q5. Seed rate per hectare?
Show answer
About 2–3 tonnes of 35–60 mm tubers.
Q6. Why is loose clod-free soil essential?
Show answer
Tubers physically expand through the soil — compaction limits their size and deforms them.
Q7. Standard spacing and population?
Show answer
75–90 cm ridges × 25–30 cm in-row ≈ 40,000–50,000 plants/ha.
Q8. Spacing effect on tuber size?
Show answer
Closer = more but smaller tubers (seed production); wider = fewer, larger (table/chips).
Q9. Planting depth and orientation?
Show answer
8–12 cm deep with sprouts facing up.
Q10. Why not fresh manure?
Show answer
It encourages common scab and tuber rots — use well-rotted material only.
MONTH 3 — Earthing Up, Water & Feeding

Lesson 3.1 — Earthing up (the operation that makes the crop)

  • Tubers form on stolons ABOVE the seed piece — so the volume of loose soil you pile around the stem is literally the space available for your harvest.
  • First earthing-up at 15–20 cm plant height (about 3–4 weeks); second at 5–6 weeks, drawing soil from the furrows up around the stems to build a deep firm ridge.
  • Three jobs at once: more tuber space, weed control, and covering tubers so light cannot reach them (preventing toxic greening).
  • Any tuber you see poking through the ridge means the ridge is too small — cover it immediately.

Lesson 3.2 — Irrigation

  • Total water need: roughly 500–700 mm over the crop. Consistency matters more than volume.
  • The critical window is tuber initiation through bulking (roughly weeks 5–10) — drought here directly cuts tuber number and size.
  • Irregular watering — dry then flood — causes cracked, knobbly and hollow-heart tubers that buyers reject. Steady moisture produces smooth, marketable tubers.
  • Reduce and then stop irrigation as the crop matures and haulms yellow — this helps skins set for storage.

Lesson 3.3 — Nutrition

NutrientRole in potatoesTiming
PhosphorusRoot and tuber initiationAll at planting (basal)
NitrogenHaulm (leaf) growth to feed tubersBasal + top dressing at first earthing-up
PotassiumTuber bulking, dry matter, storage and frying qualityBasal, heavy — potatoes are potassium-hungry
Calcium/magnesiumSkin quality, internal defectsVia lime/dolomite where soils are deficient
  • Stop nitrogen after the second earthing-up: late nitrogen keeps the plant green and leafy, delaying maturity and giving watery tubers that store badly.

Lesson 3.4 — Weeds

  • Weeds are controlled mostly BY the earthing-up operations — which is another reason to do them on time.
  • After the ridges close over (canopy meets between rows), avoid disturbing the ridge: hoeing then damages stolons and developing tubers.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Month 3): (1) Perform both earthing-up operations on schedule and measure ridge height before and after. (2) Build and follow an irrigation calendar covering the weeks 5–10 critical window. (3) Apply the top dressing at first earthing-up and mark the "no more N" cut-off on your calendar.
📹 VIDEO 3: "Building the ridge" (13 min) — where tubers actually form, earthing-up technique, greening prevention.

QUIZ 3 — Crop management

Q1. Where do tubers form relative to the seed?
Show answer
On stolons ABOVE the seed piece — so ridge soil volume is the space available for the crop.
Q2. When are the two earthing-up operations done?
Show answer
At 15–20 cm plant height (3–4 weeks) and again at 5–6 weeks.
Q3. Three jobs earthing-up performs?
Show answer
Creates tuber space, controls weeds, and blocks light to prevent toxic greening.
Q4. What does a visible tuber in the ridge tell you?
Show answer
The ridge is too small — cover it at once or it greens and becomes toxic.
Q5. Total crop water requirement?
Show answer
Roughly 500–700 mm, applied consistently.
Q6. The critical water window?
Show answer
Tuber initiation through bulking, roughly weeks 5–10.
Q7. What does irregular watering produce?
Show answer
Cracked, knobbly and hollow-heart tubers that buyers reject.
Q8. Which nutrient drives bulking and frying quality?
Show answer
Potassium — potatoes are heavy potassium feeders.
Q9. Why stop nitrogen after second earthing-up?
Show answer
Late N delays maturity and gives watery tubers that store badly.
Q10. Why stop hoeing once ridges close?
Show answer
Disturbing the ridge damages stolons and developing tubers.
MONTH 4 — Late Blight & the Disease War

Lesson 4.1 — Late blight: the crop destroyer

  • Conditions that trigger it: cool (12–20°C), wet or highly humid weather, especially with leaf wetness lasting several hours — classic African highland growing weather.
  • Signs: dark water-soaked patches on leaves spreading fast, with a pale halo and white fuzzy growth on the undersides in humid mornings; blackened stems; and firm brown-red rot beneath the skin of infected tubers.
  • Timeline: a green field can be dead haulms in 7–14 days once it takes hold.
  • The programme: begin PROTECTANT sprays (registered contact fungicides, e.g. mancozeb-type or copper products) before symptoms appear when blight weather starts, on a 7–10 day cycle, tightening to 5–7 days in wet conditions and after heavy rain. Use systemic/translaminar products for high pressure per label and extension advice, and ALTERNATE chemical groups to prevent resistance.
  • Cultural weapons: resistant varieties (the biggest saving), wide ridges and airflow, avoiding overhead irrigation late in the day, removing volunteer potatoes and cull piles (the season's first blight usually comes from a dump heap), and destroying infected haulms.

Lesson 4.2 — Bacterial wilt (brown rot)

  • Signs: sudden wilting of green plants, brown vascular ring when a tuber is cut, and greyish ooze from the cut ring after a minute; a cut stem suspended in clear water streams milky threads.
  • There is NO chemical cure. Control is entirely: certified clean seed, long rotation, removing and destroying infected plants with surrounding soil, disinfecting tools, and never irrigating from water that has run through an infected field.
  • This disease is the main reason "cheap" market-bought seed is expensive.

Lesson 4.3 — The rest of the disease and pest gallery

ProblemSignsManagement
Early blightTarget-ring brown spots on older leavesBalanced nutrition, protectant sprays, rotation
Common scabRough corky patches on tuber skinKeep soil pH mildly acid, steady moisture at tuber set, no fresh manure
Viruses (leafroll, mosaic)Rolled/mottled leaves, stunting, declining yieldsCertified seed, aphid control, positive selection, rogue infected plants
Potato tuber mothTunnels in tubers, especially exposed ones and in storageDeep ridging, prompt harvest, no exposed tubers, clean store, traps
AphidsColonies on leaves; they SPREAD virusesScout weekly, soap/neem or registered products, remove weed hosts
Cutworms/white grubsCut stems, holes in tubersClean cultivation, soil treatment where severe

Lesson 4.4 — Spray discipline

  • Calibrate the sprayer, cover leaf undersides, spray in still cool conditions, and re-spray after heavy rain (protectants wash off).
  • Full protective gear, label doses only, rotate chemical groups, and keep a spray diary with product, date, dose and pre-harvest interval — which processors and formal buyers will ask to see.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Month 4): (1) Start a blight-weather watch (temperature + leaf wetness/rain notes) and launch the protectant programme accordingly. (2) Practise the bacterial wilt tuber-ring and stem-in-water tests. (3) Walk the field weekly, rogue out virus-symptom plants, and peg the healthiest plants for positive selection seed.
📹 VIDEO 4: "Seven days to lose a field" (16 min) — blight identification and the preventive calendar, wilt tests, roguing and pegging.

QUIZ 4 — Disease

Q1. Weather that triggers late blight?
Show answer
Cool 12–20°C with wet or very humid conditions and prolonged leaf wetness.
Q2. How fast can late blight destroy a crop?
Show answer
7–14 days from healthy field to dead haulms.
Q3. Protectant spray interval in wet weather?
Show answer
Tighten from 7–10 days to 5–7 days — and re-spray after heavy rain.
Q4. Where does the season's first blight usually come from?
Show answer
Volunteer potatoes and cull/dump heaps — destroy them.
Q5. Two field tests for bacterial wilt?
Show answer
Brown vascular ring oozing greyish liquid in a cut tuber; milky threads from a cut stem suspended in clear water.
Q6. Is there a chemical cure for bacterial wilt?
Show answer
No — only clean certified seed, rotation, roguing, tool hygiene and water discipline.
Q7. What spreads potato viruses?
Show answer
Aphids — which is why aphid scouting and certified seed matter together.
Q8. Common scab management?
Show answer
Keep pH mildly acidic, steady moisture at tuber set, and avoid fresh manure.
Q9. How is potato tuber moth limited?
Show answer
Deep ridging (no exposed tubers), prompt harvest, clean stores and traps.
Q10. What three things does a spray diary record?
Show answer
Product, date/dose, and the pre-harvest interval.
MODULE 5 — Harvest, Curing & Storage

Lesson 5.1 — Maturity and dehaulming

  • Maturity signs: haulms yellow and die back naturally; the skin does not rub off when you press and twist a thumb across a tuber ("skin set").
  • Dehaulming: cutting or removing the tops 2–3 weeks before harvest is standard practice — it sets the skin, stops blight spores on foliage from washing down to tubers, and controls final tuber size (essential for seed production).
  • Never harvest tubers with loose skins — they bruise, lose water and rot rapidly in storage.

Lesson 5.2 — Lifting without damage

  • Harvest in dry conditions, in cool hours; lift carefully with a fork well away from the plant centre, or by hand along the ridge.
  • Do not drop, throw or pour tubers between containers — bruising is invisible for days, then becomes rot and price loss.
  • Keep harvested tubers OUT OF THE SUN. Two hours of direct sun starts greening and heats tubers into breakdown.
  • Sort at harvest into: ware (eating/sale), seed-size (35–60 mm from your pegged healthy plants), and rejects (damaged, greened, rotting — never stored).

Lesson 5.3 — Curing and ware storage

  • Cure 10–14 days in a dark, ventilated, humid, shaded place at moderate temperature — this heals harvest wounds by forming corky tissue and dramatically cuts storage rot.
  • Ware storage: DARK, cool, ventilated, off the ground. Light causes greening (toxic); heat causes sprouting and shrinkage; wetness causes rot.
  • Store in shallow layers, slatted crates or ventilated bags; never in deep unventilated piles or sealed plastic sacks. Inspect every 2 weeks and remove any rotting tuber immediately.
  • Realistic smallholder ware storage: 4–12 weeks depending on temperature and ventilation. In hot lowlands, sell soon; in cool highlands, storage becomes a genuine profit strategy.

Lesson 5.4 — Seed storage: the opposite rules

  • Seed potatoes are stored in DIFFUSED LIGHT (the "diffused light store" — a simple shaded, ventilated rack structure), which is the reverse of ware storage.
  • Why: light keeps sprouts short, green and sturdy, delays over-sprouting, and reduces losses — a proven low-cost technology that can extend seed storage to several months.
  • Store seed in single or shallow layers on slatted shelves; remove rotting tubers; never mix seed and ware stores.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Module 5): (1) Dehaulm 2–3 weeks before harvest and test skin set before lifting. (2) Harvest, sort into three streams and record percentages; cure the ware crop 10–14 days. (3) Build a simple diffused light store and load your pegged seed tubers.
📹 VIDEO 5: "Skin set to store" (15 min) — dehaulming, careful lifting, curing, and building a diffused light store.

QUIZ 5 — Harvest & storage

Q1. Two maturity signs?
Show answer
Haulms yellowing and dying back, and skin that doesn't rub off under thumb pressure (skin set).
Q2. What is dehaulming and why do it?
Show answer
Removing tops 2–3 weeks pre-harvest — sets skins, stops blight washing to tubers, controls final size.
Q3. Why does bruising matter so much?
Show answer
It's invisible at first, then becomes rot and lost value in storage.
Q4. What does two hours of sun do to harvested tubers?
Show answer
Starts greening (toxic solanine) and heats them toward breakdown.
Q5. Curing conditions and duration?
Show answer
10–14 days in a dark, ventilated, humid, shaded place — wounds heal with corky tissue.
Q6. Ware storage conditions?
Show answer
Dark, cool, ventilated, off the ground, in shallow layers — never sealed sacks or deep piles.
Q7. How is seed storage different from ware storage?
Show answer
Seed is stored in DIFFUSED LIGHT, which keeps sprouts short, green and strong.
Q8. Realistic smallholder ware storage life?
Show answer
4–12 weeks depending on temperature and ventilation.
Q9. Three harvest sorting streams?
Show answer
Ware for sale, 35–60 mm seed from pegged healthy plants, and rejects (never stored).
Q10. Store inspection routine?
Show answer
Every two weeks, removing any rotting tuber immediately.
MODULE 6 — Marketing, Economics & Your Business Plan

Lesson 6.1 — Where potatoes sell

  • Chip/fry vendors: the volume market in most African towns — they want oblong, medium-large tubers with high dry matter and will buy weekly, reliably.
  • Traders and markets: fast bulk sale, lowest price; graded lots still earn more than mixed.
  • Processors (crisps/fries): contract specifications on variety, size, dry matter and sometimes spray records — the best prices for those who can meet them.
  • Restaurants, schools, supermarkets: steady graded supply.
  • Seed potatoes to other farmers: the highest margin of all — your positive-selection or certified-progeny seed sells at a serious premium in the planting season. Check whether formal seed sales require certification in your country.

Lesson 6.2 — Grading and presentation

  • Grade by size and quality: large/ware for chips, medium for table, 35–60 mm for seed, small for household/processing. Remove all greened, cut, scabby and rotting tubers.
  • Never sell greened tubers — it's a food-safety issue and it destroys buyer trust.
  • Clean, uniform, correctly bagged lots consistently earn 15–30% more than mixed field-run sacks at the same market.

Lesson 6.3 — The worked economics (1 ha, certified seed)

ItemTypical range (USD)
Certified seed 2.5 t$700–1,800
Fertiliser (basal + top) + manure$400–900
Blight/pest programme (season)$200–600
Land prep, ridging, earthing-up, labour$300–800
Harvest, bags, transport, storage$150–450
Total cost/ha$1,750–4,550
Yield 20–30 t @ $180–350/t$3,600–10,500
Margin/haSubstantial when yields exceed ~15 t; negative below ~10 t
  • The honest reading: potatoes have a high cash cost per hectare, dominated by seed. That makes them unforgiving of low yields — but it's also exactly why certified seed pays: it's the input that moves you from the loss-making 10 t/ha zone into the profitable 20–30 t zone.

Lesson 6.4 — Risk management

  • Never plant your entire capital in one potato block; blight and price swings are real.
  • Split plantings across dates where irrigation allows, to spread blight risk and harvest into different price windows.
  • Keep the spray diary and grading standards ready — they're what open processor contracts when you're ready to scale.

Lesson 6.5 — Final project: your bankable business plan

  • Assemble: rotation history, seed strategy (certified source and refresh cycle, or positive-selection protocol), variety choice with buyer confirmation, planting-to-harvest calendar, blight programme with spray diary, yield and grade results, storage design (ware + diffused light seed store), buyer list with prices, risk plan and a 3-season growth path including a seed-selling line.
  • Submit with photos and records for your rAs certificate — potato plans with a documented seed strategy are exactly what input-credit and aggregator schemes fund.
🛠️ Practical assignments (Module 6): (1) Grade and sell through two channels; compare net price per kg. (2) Compute your cost per kg produced and your yield per hectare achieved. (3) Complete and submit the bankable business plan including your seed refresh cycle.
📹 VIDEO 6: "Cost per kilo and the seed business" (14 min) — grading for chip vendors, processor specs, selling seed at a premium.

QUIZ 6 — Business

Q1. Which buyers form the volume market in African towns?
Show answer
Chip/fry vendors — wanting oblong, medium-large, high-dry-matter tubers weekly.
Q2. Which product carries the highest margin?
Show answer
Seed potatoes sold to other farmers (subject to any national certification rules).
Q3. Why must greened tubers never be sold?
Show answer
Solanine makes them toxic and bitter — it's a food-safety and reputation issue.
Q4. Grading premium?
Show answer
Clean uniform graded lots earn roughly 15–30% more than mixed field-run sacks.
Q5. Which input dominates potato cash cost?
Show answer
Seed — typically 30–50% of the total.
Q6. Why does high cost per hectare make yield critical?
Show answer
Below roughly 10 t/ha the crop loses money; certified seed is what lifts yields into the profitable 20–30 t zone.
Q7. How do split plantings reduce risk?
Show answer
They spread blight exposure and let you harvest into different price windows.
Q8. What do processors typically specify?
Show answer
Variety, size, dry matter — and often spray records.
Q9. What two stores does a serious potato farm need?
Show answer
A dark ventilated ware store and a diffused light seed store.
Q10. What makes a potato business plan fundable?
Show answer
A documented seed strategy (certified source and refresh cycle) alongside blight programme and grading records.

💰 Startup budget (0.25 ha)

ItemTypical range (USD)
Certified seed (600–750 kg)$180–450
Fertiliser + manure$110–230
Blight/pest programme + sprayer$70–200
Labour (ridging, earthing-up, harvest)$80–200
Bags, crates, curing/store materials$50–150
Total$490–1,230
Iron-Clad Price Check: certified seed above all — 3 quotes, and buy as a group with neighbours where possible. Also price fungicides for the whole season upfront, since blight won't wait for payday.

📖 Glossary

📚 Resources

🎓 Enroll & earn your Potato Farming certificate

Business Seed Record ($10) issued on completion of all module quizzes + the final project.